A Guide to Making Great Homemade Pasta

If you’ve followed my Instagram, you may have noticed my recent (or not so recent) obsession with pasta. In the span of three months during covid, I learned a new homemade pasta each week. I scoured both cookbooks and the internet for recipes, videos, and instructions to make each shape. Along the way, I learned so much about the history and techniques of all of these interesting shapes!

When making homemade pasta, there are a few key elements required to understand to really nail the process: perfecting the dough, learning pasta shapes, and storing the pasta. In this guide, I will walk through each of these different areas.

I spent the last three months making a different pasta shape each week - here’s what I learned.

Notes & Caveats

• Before we begin, I’d like to preface that there are hundreds, maybe even a thousand pasta shapes. I spent 3 months on this project, but others have spent decades doing so! Where possible, I provide additional links to resources if you’d like to learn from the masters.

• This guide is for fresh pasta, with a specific focus on the elements mentioned above. For a guide on cooking dried pasta and/or inspiration for sauces to pair with your pasta, see my Guide to Cooking Great Pasta.

• I know this post is long - it’s meant to be comprehensive. I created this to offer visual guidance and answer common questions that I faced, myself, in pasta making. It includes pretty much everything you’ll need to make great pasta, in addition to several recipes and resources at the end to get started.

1. Perfecting the Dough

What do we mean when we say we want to make great pasta dough? Depending on the type of dough, this could mean different things. Fresh fettuccine, for example, is often silky, soft and smooth with a slight elastic quality. Ricotta gnocchi melts in your mouth, and should never be tough or chunky. Malloreddus has a really chewy, satisfying bite to it. While each individual pasta shape has a rich history and unique textural profile, many shapes use the same base dough and technique.

Typically, there are 3 types of doughs:

• Egg yolk dough: Fettuccine, pappardelle, farfalle, garganelli, and ravioli are all examples of pasta shapes using egg yolks. Some recipes use just egg yolks, while others use whole eggs (more on that later). These also tend to be rolled out via a pasta maker or rolling pin into flattened sheets before cutting into individual shapes. Traditionally, these doughs originated from Northern and some areas of Central Italy.

• Semolina/durum wheat pasta dough: Orecchiette, malloreddus, and cavatelli are all examples of pasta shapes made with semolina/durum wheat flour. Most doughs are made with a 1:2 ratio of water to flour; no yolks are involved. Doughs need to be kneaded for at least 20 minutes to form enough gluten and yield a toothsome result. These doughs originated from Southern and some areas of Central Italy.

• Potato/ricotta gnocchi dough: Potato and ricotta gnocchis just barely come together with a bit of flour, with the potato/ricotta as the main star of the show. Sometimes, the dough is made with interesting ingredients such as sweet potato or goat cheese.

There are many, many other pasta shapes that don’t follow the categorization above. Some fall in between, and include both egg yolks and semolina, while others are much more batter-like. In this guide, I will be focused most heavily on the most popular pasta shapes for egg yolk and semolina doughs.

Key Ingredients

Flour. Flour is a vital component to pasta making. Kneading flour with a liquid (eggs or water) allows gluten to form from the proteins in the flour. This gluten formation creates the characteristic slightly stretchy, elastic texture in pasta.

• There are several different types of flour used in homemade pasta, from 00 to semolina, to durum wheat, to chestnut. More recently, some chefs in the US have also started using local flours, like red fife wheat. I, myself, have gotten confused between what flours to use. Is semolina the same as durum wheat? Why do some pastas use 00 flour while others use durum? What’s the best flour for pasta?

• Understanding flours can be confusing. The most important thing to note is that there are two main types of flours used in pasta making: a softer, lower protein flour and harder, higher protein flour. According to Marc Vetri in Mastering Pasta, soft flours provide elasticity, or stretch, while harder flours create more plasticity to ensure shapes stay in place. Soft flours are used in the typical egg yolk doughs — think of that subtle, stretchy/springiness in fettuccine, while hard flours help create shapes in semolina doughs, like orecchiette.

• But we can also think outside of the box. Play around with adding 10%, 20% or 30% hard flours to a soft flour egg yolk dough and see what happens. As long as you have an understanding of when and why you’d want to use a lower vs. higher protein flour, you can experiment with different combinations of the two and different combinations of different flours.

• An overview of common flours:

  • 00 Flour: Most people use Italian 00 flour for their pasta — the “00” annotation refers to the fineness of the flour when milled, which helps ensure that the pasta can easily slide through the rollers. 00 is the most finely milled flour in Italy and considered a softer wheat flour (so lower protein).

  • Semolina Flour: Semolina flour is made by milling durum flour, a harder wheat flour with higher protein and a characteristic pale yellow color. Because of its coarser nature, it’s most often used to keep pasta from sticking to itself. Some pasta recipes may call for semolina, but most will call for a finer ground (durum wheat or semola).

  • Durum Wheat Flour / Semola Rimacinata: This flour is made by grinding semolina even further into a finer ground. Generally, durum wheat flour is used interchangeably with semola rimacinata. In addition to being higher protein, this flour also has a slightly rougher texture, allowing sauces to get trapped and cling to the noodles.

  • Other flours: Chestnut, farro, and buckwheat flours are also used in some pasta recipes. Some of these alternative flours became popular in times of rationing, for example during wartime.

• A note on local flour: Homemade pasta is delicious, no matter what ingredients you’re using. However, the flour that we buy in a grocery store or via amazon is much more stale than a freshly milled flour (local or milled yourself). I highly recommend trying some local flours in your pasta to see the difference. Again, experimentation is key here - don’t feel afraid to play around! If you’re interested in learning more, Mastering Pasta goes into a lot of detail on this.

In summary: The most important thing with flour for pasta making is understanding what type you need for the particular shape you’re making. Do you want a more stretchy pasta? Do you want the pasta to hold its shape? If your sauce is heartier, you might want a more chewy shape; if lighter, you may want a softer dough.

Eggs. For egg doughs, If I can afford to, I always try to use high quality eggs in my pasta as I feel it really adds to the richness and luxuriousness of the dough. I’ve made doughs with just egg yolks and doughs with egg yolks and whole eggs. I personally prefer an all egg-yolk dough or a higher ratio of egg yolks to whole eggs. Egg yolks add richness and a bit more firmness because of their protein, while whole eggs are more watery. A firmer dough also means it’s harder to roll thinner, so depending on the type of pasta you’re making you may want to replace the egg yolks with more eggs.

Olive Oil. Some pasta doughs will utilize olive oil, which adds moisture and makes it a bit easier to roll out the dough.

Kneading the Dough

Once you have the ingredients measured out to make your dough (see here for recipes), you’re ready to make the dough.

For homemade pasta with a Kitchenaid:

1. Measure out your flour onto a cutting board or large wooden work surface.

2. Make a well with your fingers in the center of the flour, then widen it. You’re looking for a wide, almost crater-like well so that the eggs do not spill over the top.

3. Slowly add eggs, one at a time into the well. If you notice the well isn’t tall or wide enough, you can continue to adjust. For beginners, I recommend building your well in a large bowl to avoid a mess (in case the eggs break). Add olive oil and salt if using.

4. Using a fork, poke the eggs and whisk them until homogenous.

5. Slowly begin mixing some of the surrounding flour into the well, being careful not to break it. If you do happen to break the well, it’s totally fine — it’ll just make it slightly harder to get a homogenous dough ball as quickly.

6. Begin incorporating more and more of the flour into the well, whisking with the fork until the liquid in the well starts thickening. Once it becomes thick and solid, place the fork down and begin kneading with your hands.

7. Alternate between incorporating more of the remaining flour and kneading the dough. A bench scraper is a helpful tool to pick up any of those scraggly bits from the work surface as well as your own hands.

8. Once in a solid mass, I like to knead with both my hands then rotate the dough counter clockwise at 45 degrees. Continue repeating until the dough is soft and smooth, about 5-7 minutes. It should not feel sticky, and there should be no dry bits remaining. Tip: When watching Evan Funke, a master pastaio, he noted that once your pasta is in a solid ball, it takes much more effort to smoothly incorporate small scraggly bits into the dough. If there are a few bits leftover, just move them to the side and continue kneading the rest of the dough.

9. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap.

10. Let the dough rest for at least 20 minutes before rolling out. You can keep it in the fridge, wrapped tightly, for 1-2 days but I prefer to roll it out the same day.

A smooth rested egg dough ball

See the following video

Fun Variations

As you can see in the semolina example above, I used a pink juice, made from strawberries in place of water. You can experiment with many different colored liquids in both semolina and egg doughs.

For egg doughs, keep in mind a couple of things:

1. Egg doughs need a certain amount of additional protein and fat from the eggs, so the dough may be softer and roll thinner if you replace an egg 1:1 with liquid.

2. Egg yolks are naturally quite yellow, so whatever additional colored liquid you add will mix with the yellow. i.e.: pink + yellow egg yolk = orange.

For semolina doughs, you can replace the water 1:1 with the colored liquid (assuming it has the same consistency as water; if it’s a puree you’ll need to add more water to adjust).

Example natural colorings:

1. Red: cranberries, beets, pomegranate, tomato

2. Orange: carrots, sweet potato, paprika, tomato powder

3. Yellow: pasta dough will naturally be yellow from the semolina and/or egg yolks, but for more yellow color, you can use turmeric or yellow beets

4. Green: spinach/kale/collards

5. Blue: red cabbage, butterfly pea

6. Purple: blueberries, blackberries

7. Pink/Magenta: strawberries, raspberries, red beets

8. Black: squid ink, black sesame

9. Brown: cocoa powder, coffee

Method for natural colors

There are numerous methods online to make colored juice/purees for pasta, but here are some tips:

1. If you have a juicer, it’s the fastest way to get a colored liquid. I’ve juiced fruits like strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, etc. Beets or spinach also work.

2. An alternative way to make juice is to submerge a vegetable like cabbage or spinach in a pan with water then bring to a boil to release the color. Then blend the water and vegetable until smooth and strain.

3. For powders, you can just add in place of flour.

4. I freeze these liquids up to 3 months and defrost in the microwave whenever I want to add to pasta.

Spices: Sometimes, I’ll add spices to my dough adding a “speckled” look. Add any spices you’d like to the flour before making the well, such as black pepper or paprika.

Troubleshooting

1. While kneading, I noticed my dough is too wet. Sprinkle a small amount (the key is small! ~1 tsp) of flour at a time while kneading until the dough becomes more manageable.

2. While kneading, I noticed my dough is too dry. Sprinkle a small amount (the key is small! ~1 tsp) of water at a time while kneading until the dough becomes more manageable. If you have a spray bottle, that works well.

   • And note, dry bits are different from your overall dough being too dry. If you have small dry bits, and you’re at the beginning of the kneading phase, they may very well get incorporated. If you’ve been kneading for a while, you can scrape those bits off and set them aside.

3. How do I know when my dough is done kneading? You will be able to get the hang of this the more you practice. In general, for both types of pasta, the dough ball will be quite smooth — there shouldn’t be any dry bits on the surface and and it shouldn’t be sticky. For semolina dough, you’ll want to knead quite a bit longer to build up a gluten network.

4. After resting, my dough is too sticky. For egg dough, sprinkle a little flour or cornstarch on top of the dough for passing through the rollers. If it’s really sticky, you’ll need to re-knead the dough with more flour and let rest again before attempting to roll out. For semolina dough, if it’s a little bit sticky it’s okay — this dough dries out really easily as you’re making shapes, so it may still be workable. If very sticky, you’ll need to do the same method as the egg dough above.

5. What’s considered a high vs. low protein flour? High protein is generally classified 10% - 14% while lower protein flour is typically 5% - 10%. All Purpose Flour (AP) is typically in the 10% - 12% range, while bread flour is 12% - 14%.

   1. Tip: King Arthur Flour’s AP is higher protein content than other AP flours at 11.7%.

2.Rolling Out Dough

For egg dough:

1. For four servings (about 1 lb of pasta dough), you’ll want to divide the ball into four equal sections.

2. Take one section out, leaving the rest in plastic wrap. Roll out the section of dough until it’s ⅓” thick.

3. If using a pasta maker, feed the dough into the widest setting (#1) twice. The dough will likely be in an oval shape. To make a uniform rectangle, fold one end halfway up the dough, then fold the other end on top so you’ll have three even layers. Roll the dough out to ¼” thickness.

Feed the dough through the next highest setting (#2) twice, then continue feeding through narrower and narrower settings until you’ve reached the thinness required.

Once the dough is at the right thickness, you can proceed to cutting and forming the desired shape. If the dough is sticking to the rollers, you can sprinkle a bit of flour on it.

4. If rolling egg pasta pasta by hand, I highly recommend referring to American Sfoglino by Evan Funke. I personally don’t roll my pasta by hand, but I hope to one day. While you can still make great pasta with a machine, hand rolled pasta imparts additional texture to the dough for sauce to cling to.

For semolina dough:

1. Typically, most shapes made from this type of dough involve breaking off a chunk of dough at a time (usually about 2” wide), rolling it into a thin rope (between ¼” to ½” diameter), then cutting the rope into ¼” to 1” pieces and shaping. Each recipe is different, but the process of rolling and then cutting is generally the same.

Tip: When rolling out dough, spread your fingertips wide and roll with your palms outward to stretch the rope.

3. Pasta Shapes: From Tagliatelle to Malloreddus

Now that you’ve prepped the dough, you’re ready to move on to making the individual shapes. For each shape (there are 10+!!), I’ve included a bit of information on the history, a brief technique, and suggested pairings.

For an easy-to-view spreadsheet with all pasta shapes listed, their origins, and pairings, see here.

Durum wheat doughs

long, pencil-like strands of chewy goodness

PICI

Dough: Durum wheat/00 Flour/Water or 00 Flour/Water; sometimes oil

Technique: Roll dough into thin sheet, then cut into sections and roll each section into thick, spaghetti-like strands

Difficulty: Easy

Region/Origin: Tuscany; similar pastas made in Umbria, Lazio, Siena

Special Equipment: None

Traditional Pairings: Boar ragu; tomato and garlic sauce; pancetta and bread crumbs

Full Method & Recipe: Pasta by Hand (by Jenn Louis)

Small, hot-dog shaped pieces of pasta, sometimes ridged using a gnocchi board

CAVATELLI

Dough: Durum wheat, used to be made with fava bean flour in the south. Cavatelli can also be used as a generic term to describe pasta drawn across a gnocchi board and indented; some cavatelli dough can include ricotta or squash

Technique: Roll dough into a rope, then cut into ¾" - 1" pieces. Drag a knife across each piece to curl it over into hot dog shape. Create texture using a gnocchi board, strainer, or cheese grater.

Difficulty: Easy/Medium

Region/Origin: Campania, Puglia, Sicily, Calabria, and Basilicata

Special Equipment: Gnocchi board (or strainer or cheese grater -- anything with texture)

Traditional Pairings: Lamb ragu, tomato sauce; meat and vegetable sauces; broccoli rabe and white sauce; often served with chilies

Full Method & Recipe: Pasta by Hand (by Jenn Louis)

Small, ridged pasta similar to cavatelli but made with saffron and originating in Sardinia

MALLOREDDUS

Dough: Durum wheat, saffron, water

Technique: Roll dough into a rope, then cut into ½" pieces. Drag a knife across each piece to curl it over into hot dog shape. Create texture using a gnocchi board, strainer, or cheese grater

Difficulty: Easy/Medium

Region/Origin: Sardinia

Special Equipment: Gnocchi board (or strainer or cheese grater -- anything with texture)

Traditional Pairings: Ragu, tomato sauce

Full Method & Recipe: Pasta by Hand (by Jenn Louis); Malloreddus with Tomato Butter Sauce

A pasta shape meaning “little ears”, these are textured from dragging a knife against small pieces of dough then inverting on your thumb

ORECCHIETTE

Dough: Durum wheat, sometimes whole wheat flour, water

Technique: Roll dough into a rope, then cut into ¼" - ½" pieces. Drag a knife across each piece to curl it over into hot dog shape then invert on your thumb.

Difficulty: Medium

Region/Origin: Puglia

Special Equipment: None

Traditional Pairings: Broccoli rabe / rapini, sausage, and chili flakes; sometimes mushrooms

Full Method & Recipe: Homemade Orecchiette

Small, chickpea-like dumplings with Saffron from Sardinia

CICIONES

Dough: Durum wheat, saffron, water

Technique: Roll dough into a rope, then cut into ¼" pieces. Roll each piece into a spherical ball to mimic chickpeas.

Difficulty: Medium

Region/Origin: Sardinia

Special Equipment: None

Traditional Pairings: Meat sauce and pecorino

Full Method & Recipe: Pasta by Hand (by Jenn Louis)

CECAMARITI

Dough: Wheat flour, yeast/sourdough, water

Small pieces of raised (yeasted) bread dough shaped into pasta

Technique: Roll dough into a rope, then cut into ½" pieces. Roll each piece with your fingers to create a wider center and tapered ends.

Difficulty: Easy

Region/Origin: Lazio and Molise

Special Equipment: None

Traditional Pairings: Raw garlic + chili; tomato sauce

Full Method & Recipe: Briciole

Egg doughs

Classic ribbons of egg dough

TAGLIATELLE

Dough: Egg

Technique: Fold and cut pasta sheets into ¼" strips

Difficulty: Easy

Region/Origin: Bologna, but also widespread

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand

Traditional Pairings: Varying by region, but bolognese is very common in Bologna; sausage and peas in the countryside

Full Method & Recipe: American Sfoglino (by Evan Funke)

Classic wide egg ribbons

PAPPARDELLE

Dough: Egg

Technique: Fold and cut pasta sheets into 1" strips

Difficulty: Easy

Region/Origin: Emilia-Romagna, the Marche, Umbria, Tuscany, Abruzzo

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand

Traditional Pairings: Ragu

Full Method & Recipe: American Sfoglino (by Evan Funke)

“Butterfly” shaped pasta

FARFALLE

Dough: Egg

Technique: Cut pasta sheets into 2" x 1" squares then pinch middles to form butterfly shape

Difficulty: Medium

Region/Origin: Throughout

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand; ravioli/fluted cutter

Traditional Pairings: Varies by region; I love it with prosciutto and peas

Full Method & Recipe: Mastering Pasta (by Marc Vetri)

Tubular pasta, sometimes stuffed with cheeses or meats

PACCHERI

Dough: Egg, Durum wheat flour and water for factory made

Technique: Cut pasta sheets into rectangles then seal one end over the other to form a tubular shape

Difficulty: Medium

Region/Origin: Campania / Southern Italy

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand

Traditional Pairings: Varies by region; sometimes stuffed with sausage and garlic, or mushrooms in a white wine sauce; sometimes bolognese

Full Method & Recipe: The Pasta Project

Classic circular or square-shaped stuffed pasta

RAVIOLI

Dough: Egg

Technique: Divide pasta sheet in half and mark circles or squares on one half. Spoon filling into each circle/square, then fold the other half over. Press the filling then cut out each circle/square.

Difficulty: Medium

Region/Origin: Throughout

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand; ravioli cutter or press

Traditional Pairings: Varies by region, but typically stuffed with ricotta and greens or meat

Full Method & Recipe: Mastering Pasta (by Marc Vetri)

 

Small, pinched pouches of dough stuffed with delicious fillings

AGNOLOTTI

Dough: Egg

Technique: Divide pasta sheet in half and spoon small amounts of filling across one side; fold the other side over and pinch to seal, then run a cutter across the sealed edge. Cut into individual squares or rectangles, depending on the type of agnolotti.

Difficulty: Medium/Hard

Region/Origin: Langhe, Tuscany

Special Equipment: Pasta machine or by hand; ravioli / fluted cutter

Traditional Pairings: Varies by region, but typically stuffed with meat or cheese

Full Method & Recipe: Agnolotti del Plin (by Eataly)

5. How to Store Pasta

Okay, so you’ve learned how to knead, roll and shape your pasta. Often times, you’ll make a larger batch of pasta that’s not possible to eat in one sitting, so it’s helpful to understand how best to store any extras.

For more details on storing homemade pasta, check out my comprehensive guide.

6. Pairing Fresh Pasta

In addition to the pairing suggestions above, there are a few general suggestions in terms of what sauces go well with what pastas.

1. Light sauces (buttery and creamy) tend to go well with egg pasta doughs, such as tagliatelle or stuffed pastas. Heavier sauces (ragus, tomato-based) tend to stand up well to the chewy, bitey durum wheat doughs. Pastas with lots of nooks and crannies are great for holding sauces, sausages, or vegetables - for example, orecchiette pair well with sausage or even peas because the pasta can ‘cup’ the other ingredients.

2. That being said, there are always exceptions. Many ravioli dishes are served with tomato sauce. Tagliatelle and pappardelle are often served with ragus. Some of the pairings are based on tradition, while others are based on pairing an ideal texture with an ideal sauce.

3. I recommend experimenting while keeping in mind the traditions and asking yourself the question “Why did they pair it this way? Did this pasta hold up better to this sauce?”

7. Recipes & Resources

To get started on your pasta making, you’ll need a base recipe, as well as some sauce suggestions. As stated previously, treat these as guidelines. There are so many factors that can impact how your dough turns out — the humidity in the day, the size of your eggs, the fineness of your flour etc. I recommend starting with a base and adjusting based on what feels right to you. Remember, at the end of the day you’re looking for a perfectly smooth, resilient dough after kneading.

I’ve spent hours reading and re-reading recipes and instructions from experts, so for each recipe section, I’ve also provided a number of resources I found helpful.

For the dough:

EGG DOUGH

RECIPE: Egg Pasta Dough

This recipe teaches you how to make various fresh pasta shapes, including tagliatelle, pappardelle, and spaghetti.

Additional resources:

1. American Sfoglino (by Evan Funke)

2. Mastering Pasta (by Marc Vetri)

3. Pasta Dough 101 (by Pasta Social Club)

DURUM WHEAT/ SEMOLINA / SEMOLA DOUGH

RECIPE: Semolina Dough

For general pairing suggestions:

I created the following flavor matrix below as a means of helping you pick a delicious sauce based on what you had in your pantry. To download the matrix, you can click on the image.

For additional information on pairings, as well as a list of 30+ sauce recipes, see my other post here on cooking great pasta.

8. References

1. American Sfoglino (by Evan Funke)

2. Mastering Pasta (by Marc Vetri)

3. Pasta Dough 101 (by Pasta Social Club)

4. Pasta by Hand (by Jenn Louis)

5. All Purpose Fresh Pasta Dough + some science (by Serious Eats)

6. Italian Pasta Guide (by Eataly)

7. Durum Wheat vs. Soft Wheat Flour

8. The Encyclopedia of Pasta